Gaudí’s Barcelona
/A look at the listing of sites and the first thing to notice is the name Güell. Eusebi Güell was a wealthy industrialist in Barcelona’s late 1800s. Güell first saw Antoni Gaudí’s work in a window display at the Exposition Universelle in Paris in 1878. It was the beginning of a long and friendly relationship which included making furniture for the Palacio de Sobrellano (1878); work on the porter’s gatehouse of Finca Güell (1883-87); Palau Güell (1886); a winery called Bodegas Güell (1895-97) and plans for a church for Colònia Güell (1898).
Antoni Gaudí was Catalonian, born June 25, 1862 in Riudoms or Reus, provence’s of Catalonia in north western Spain. His work was influenced by the things he loved, craftsmanship, nature and his faith. Physically he focused on structural design, how a building was laid-out, the materials, the craftsmanship, the utility and most importantly the look or beauty of the appearance. Nature was a true love as seen in the tree like pillars of the Sagrada Família, the texture of the light and the little leaves and animals hidden in the ceilings and walls. Finally, his religion, a staunch Catholic, concentrating on the spiritual aspects and internal peace which guided him through his life. He never married. His single romantic interest, Josefa Moreu never returned his attention and he turned his focus to his faith and his work. It all came together in his designs which incorporated Art Nouveau and Modernista styles, which made him and Barcelona famous.
He was friendly, polite, easy to talk too and generally a pleasant person. In his youth he was very fashionable, particularly in his awareness of clothing. But as he got older he often dressed in old worn-out suits resulting in a ragged appearance.
He had a hard early life with his mother and brother dying when he was 14 years old. After establishing himself in Barcelona in 1906 he moved into a house in what is now Park Güell where he lived with his father Francesc Gaudí Serra who died in 1906 (age 93) and niece Rosa Gaudí who died in 1912 (age 36). Gaudí lived in the house until 1925. His last several months he resided in Sagrada Família where he could watch the construction. Casa Milà / La Pedrera, completed in 1912 was his last project and he spent the rest of his life devoted to the Sagrada Família.
June 7, 1926 he was walking from Sagrada Família to Sant Felip Neri church for his confession and prayer. He was struck by the #33 tram, and because of his clothing and appearance he was assumed a beggar. Unconscious, it was a long time before he was transported to a hospital where he died three days later. He was laid to rest in the crypt of the Sagrada Família.
The view from Park Güel central plateau looking out over Barcelona with the Balearic Sea in the skyline. With wandering trails and organic structures, the park is a unique experience.
Antoni Gaudí was involved in the design and construction of seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites located in the Barcelona area. These are: Park Güell, Palau (Palace) Güell, Casa Milà / La Pedrera, Casa Vicens, Sagrada Família Nativity Façade and Crypt, Casa Batlló and the Crypt of Colònia Güell.
During our trip to Barcelona in April 2023, we went to: Park Güell, Palau (Palace) Güell, Casa Milà / La Pedrera, Sagrada Família Nativity Façade and Crypt and Casa Batlló.
Park Güell: It is difficult to keep in mind that this major Barcelona tourist attraction, Park Güell, started life as a 32 acre failed housing development. Located on the Carmel Hill northwest of Central Barcelona the housing development failed primarily because of its isolation and difficult transportation connections to Barcelona.
Purchased by Eusebi Güell, he moved into the first house built on the property. The second house built never sold. Eventually it was purchased by Gaudí, where he, his father and niece lived. Gaudí was hired to redesign the acreage into a park, which after Güell died his family turned over to the city of Barcelona.
A remodel project, Palace Güel had a purpose, and the purpose was to impress the visitors (partners and competitors) of Eusebi Güel. The party room is two stories tall with holes in the fake ceiling allowing for lamps to be hung creating the stars of a night sky.
This was a chance for Gaudí to stretch his imagination and design capabilities. He reached back in time fabricating baroque styles, especially with a nature driven theme. Many of these aspects would be refined in his Sagrada Familia design.
Palace Güell: is a renovation designed by Gaudí for Eusebi Güell, an industrialist, from1886 to 1888. Located on the Rambla in the El Raval district it was designed as place for Güell to invite and impress other industrialists. With a double gothic arch entrance carriages entered through one arch, guest were taken to a receiving room and the horses were taken down to the basement to the livery. The receiving room had small windows in the upper area where Güell and family could have a peek at guests to see if wardrobe adjustments were necessary. The outstanding feature of the home are the impressive roof chimneys.
Wrapping around a corner of the Passeig de Gràcia and Carrer de Provença is the Casa Milà / La Pedrera. Designed for the Pere Milà family it was hated by the neighbors during its construction. The entire façade is stone and working the stone to fit made for a dusty and dirty construction site.
Casa Milà (La Pedrera (the Stone Quarry)): was Gaudí’s last commission. It earned the name the Stone Quarry because the neighbors complained about the dust and mess during the construction process. Following its completion in 1912 he dedicated the rest of his life to the construction of the Sagrada Família.
The building was commissioned by wealthy realtor Pere Milà and wealthier wife Roser Segimon. It is known for its weaving and rolling exterior walls and twisted wrought iron balconies. The interior is equally unique with ramps, stair cases and an open central courtyard. Originally it was a series of apartments. Roser never did feel comfortable there and when Pere died she moved out of the building. The family turned the building over to the City of Barcelona. There is still one resident in the building. The rest has been converted into a spectacular museum, a noted location for holding events and concerts.
Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984, we took a self-guided tour using a virtual guide. It was a very unique experience. Again, the flowing roof and ornate chimneys are fantastic closure to the experience.
The Sagrada Família is Gaudí’s crowning achievement. It will be the largest Gothic Cathedral in the world when it is completed during the next two years. Standing in it’s presence it is a simply a sight to behold. Just to observe the spires, reminded me of rugged mountains reaching to the sky.
Sagrada Família (Sacred Family): After his visit to the Vatican in 1872, José María Bocabella, a book store owner in Barcelona, was inspired to build a church. Following negotiations and approval from the Vatican, work on the Sagrada Família started in 1882.
The Sagrada Família was to be built using only donated funds, meaning the work progressed when funding was available. Work moved slowly until the 1929 International Exposition in Barcelona where the in process the Sagrada Família was discovered and became an international tourist destination. With over 4 million paying visitors per year, work has rapidly moved forward. Gaudí estimated that with donated funds it would take nearly 250 years to build the church, projected completion 2134. With the increased funding from ticket sales the expected completion is 2026.
Gaudí was appointed chief architect in 1884, bringing his Gothic and Art Nouveau approach and giving the structure a natural growth from the ground reaching to the heavens. The interior pillars resemble tree trunks spreading to limbs and leaves in the ceiling. The windows, colored glass, from the east reflect blues and greens on the interior representing Christ’s birth and ministry. From the west wall the glass reflects reds and oranges for Christ’s crucifixion and resurrection.
Following the completion of the Casa Mila project Gaudí devoted the rest of his life to designing and building the church. After the death of his father and niece he moved from the Park Güell house to living in the church. Only the lower levels and crypt were completed under Gaudí’s direction. He is buried in the crypt. When he died in 1926 the church was less than 25% completed, but his vision through design and notes, has been carried on by those architects who followed him.
Casa Batlló is a perfect example of the industrialization of Barcelona. With industrialization came wealth, and with wealth came owners. When you have rich important owners you create a one-up-manship competition. (There must have been quite a few of these rich industrialists in town if Eusebi Güell thought he could sell 60 homes in the exclusive Park Güell development.) Casa Batlló is one of those examples of bigger and better than the neighbor, and it is well done, a perfect example of Art Nouveau and Modernisme.
Link to Sagrada Família Slideshow
Casa Batlló: is the redesign of a house built in 1877 by Lluís Sala. The house was purchased by Joseph Batlló, a textile industrialist in Barcelona in 1903. He purchased it because of it’s centralized location in the Passeig de Gràcia in the Eixample area. Today the house forms part of a row of houses known as the Row of Discord, a series of houses in the Modernista style of architecture.
Batlló married Amàlia Godó Belaunzará, from the family which founded the La Vanguardia newspaper. They decided to remodel the house, and wanted a house which looked like nothing else in Barcelona. Gaudí was hired in 1904 to design the project…and the result is a UNESCO World Heritage Site designated in 2005.