Hanalei

View over the Hanalei River Valley from the lookout west of Princeville.  The village of Hanalei is one the main destinations on the island.  The river valley extends inland toward the mountains and is the location of the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, a 917-acre reserve that provides a protected acreage for five species of endangered water birds and the operation of taro fields for the poi, an Hawaiian food staple.

Our sense of confinement and isolation started with the pandemic in early 2020. This was followed by the lockdown, wearing masks, washing hands, avoiding crowds and only going out when we had to.  Lots of time on puzzles (not many puzzles done but lots of time).  There was a brief respite after the vaccinations in the late winter/early spring of 2021 when it felt like the coronavirus might be controllable. Unfortunately it was followed by the surge in the Delta virus so isolation, masks and hand washing returned. 

But we had a trip planned for over Thanksgiving which had been booked since May.  We took deep breaths, decided to limit time inside with others by cooking most of our meals in the Airbnb, bought N94 masks and headed for the airport.

It has been nearly four years since we visited Hanalei. There was a comforting feeling of the remembered, a reflection of the continuity of the universe, in that Hanalei had weathered the pandemic, barely changing at all since we had last been there.

We set up our chairs in the shade along the Wainiha Beach Park and watched the waves from the Wainiha Bay roll toward us across the beach.  A breeze flowing off the water topped the beautiful morning.

Although not the hippy village of the 1960s or the home of Puff the Magic Dragon from Peter, Paul and Mary fame (legend has it the dragon still exists in the shape of the curving green hills surrounding the village / its head pointed toward the pier and tale lost in the mountains), Hanalei is the perfect place to catch a glimpse of the surfer/drop-out past while being able to walk and explore the tourist destination modern Kauai has become.

The town is basically laid out along one street, highway 560, with shops and restaurants on either side and plenty of cross walks connecting.  Looking up the street/highway the retail district resembles an open air mall with a main road running down the center.  It is designed for people to enjoy with nearly as much on display in the open air as there is inside.

In the morning, we sat in beach chairs under shade trees and watched as the surf charged up the sands of the Wainiha Beach Park toward us.  We watched the hillsides across Wainiha Bay as the sun rose in the sky and mountains shifted from shades of shadow to layers of rich green.

A short drive back along 560 entailed crossing several single lane bridges. There is a proper etiquette for crossing bridges.  Wait patiently on your side allowing 5-7 cars to pass before taking your turn. This put us back in Hanalei for the afternoon Farmers Market. 

The Hanalei weekly market (Kauai has over 100 registered Farmers Market vendors and the Hanalei market is considered one of the best on the island) is a combination of local produce and crafts.  The market is completely outside with vendors in their own tents and masks are required at all times by vendors and shoppers.

Produce consists of the common tropical fruits such as papaya, pineapple, mangos, rambutan, passion fruit, dragon fruit, star fruit, breadfruit and bananas.  Staples include cucumbers, avocados, hot house tomatoes, onions, salad greens and leeks. 

The rest of the market consists of crafts.  The jewelry varies from crafted bead and shell work to finally crafted pearl earrings and necklaces in gold and silver.  We walked past displays ranging from tie dye shirts and dresses to racks of fine linen garments. Hand sewn purses, check book covers, luggage labels and tote bags of all sizes in bright tropical colors were a popular item.  We bought seat belt covers, great for using on seat belts to relieve the sharp tightness, or covering refrigerator door handles.

We were very impressed by the adherence to masking and social distancing everywhere and felt that the risk level, especially for the vaccinated was acceptable.

After a year and a half it is a great relief to truly enjoy the chance to get away.